Printable Version of Topic

Posted by: CP Fri, 04 Nov 2005 4:16 pm

Every now and then we have begineers who pops in and asks questions like"Hi, how many fishes can I keep in a 3ft tank?".It is irritating having to repeat the answers over and over again and in mosts cases the answers can be found in the forum if the member uses the search engine to look for them.

Below is a list of FAQs (frequently asked questions) in which I hope is exhaustive enough to answer most if not all common questions asked by newbies.I certainly hope that newbies will take some time going thru them, afterwhich you can use the search function to search for more infos that are not covered here.


1)What is the recommended tank size to keep goldfish?
We recommend at least a 3ft tank.So, 3, 4,5 or 6ft tanks are ideal.
It is a misconception for a beginner to think that "I am new, it is safer to start off with a small tank.When I am more experienced,I will upgrade to a bigger tank."Wrong!The bigger the tank,the easier to maintain.When you are more experienced, you can handle a smaller tank!


2)So how many goldfish can I keep in my tank?What about the water depth?
First you need to know your tank capacity.You can use the aquacal to calculate:
http://www.rafflesgold.com/forums/index.php?act=Attach&type=post&id=6607
As a guide,we recommend about 80L per fish (six inches avg length); 50L per fish shall be the bare minimum, 100L per fish is ideal.So as a rule of thumb it works out to about 2 to 3 goldfish in a 3ft tank, or 4 to 5 goldfish in a 4ft tank.
As for the depth,contrary to many people's believe,goldfish can easily withstand 2ft depth of water without any problems.Except for fries and grooming / development of top view ranchus where water is kept shallow,it is OK to keep in depths for up to 2ft for other varieties.
Here is a general guide to water height for TVR:
http://www.rafflesgold.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=78


3)I got my tank, what else do I need?
A filter and airpump.And lights to view them.
A cheap sponge filter will suffice, but there are many other filters in the market such as overhead filters (OHF),cannisters etc.If you are using OHF, you will need a submersible pump.Get one with a capacity that turns around the tank water 3 to 4 times per hour.For eg, if your tank is 200L, get a pump with a capacity that pumps out 600 to 800 L/hr.
Invest in a good airpump as well, especially if you are using sponge filters.The life of your goldfish depends on it.Some recommended brands are Shiruba,Atman and Rena.


4)I often hear people talking about tank cycling and good bacterias.What is this all about?
Fishes produces ammonia (thru their gills and wastes).Just like your pee, it contains loads of ammonia.It is toxic and harmful.You do not want to swim in your own pee, and your goldfish do not want to swim in their own sewer either.A cycled tank is simply an ecosystem that has been established in a mature filter / tank whereby there are already adequate beneficial bacterias (BB) to convert the toxic ammonia (NH3) to nitrites (NO2) which is also toxic; and then nitrates (NO3) which is much less harmful.This process is also known as the nitrogen cycle.Nitrosomonas bacteria converts ammonia to nitrite and then Nitrobacter converts nitrite to nitrate.One may observe that during the cycling process,the tank water may turn cloudy.This is normal.
There are many articles on the net explaining the nitrogen cycle; this is just one of them:
http://faq.thekrib.com/begin-cycling.html


5)I have read that a sandbed or undergravel filter is good to have.It helps promotes the population of BBs, and decorates my tank too.Shall I use them?
Here we do not advise to have sand or gravel base for your tank.It will create a host of problems;diesease etc; and is difficult to maintain.Go for a bare tank.I personally find that this is an important point to note.


6)I see,so what medium shall I put in my filter to cultivate these BBs and how long does it take for a tank to mature?
Though not a must, ceramic rings or sinster glass are recommended.Coral chips can also be used.They provide ample space for the bacteria to thrive.They are found everywhere actually,in filter mats, airstones for eg.
A new tank takes about a month to cycle.


7)How do I know if my tank is cycled?
Get a nitrate test kit.Presence of nitrates (in large amounts,at least 20ppm) indicates that the tank is cycled.


8)So I only need a medium to cultivate bacteria.But the uncle at the LFS recommends me other things;he says to use zeolites to remove ammonia and to use activated carbon to purify the water.Do I need these?
You dont need zeolites.Removal of ammonia will not help to cycle the tank.Furthermore, there is a limit of its adsorbtion capacity and once reached,you it not adsorb further.
As for activated carbon (AC), its up to you.Its not really necessary,but no harm using it either.There are some discussion on AC here:
http://www.rafflesgold.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2136&hl=


9)Do I need to add salt into the tank?
No.Read more about it here.
http://www.rafflesgold.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2146&hl=


10)What about a heater?
No.Goldfishes are cold blooded,and they can survive temperatures that are near freezing.


11)What type of food to feed and how often?Do I need to soak the pellets before feeding?
Good quality pellets are recommended.Feeding of veggies such as peas occasionally, and frozen feed such as frozen bloodworms are OK.Stay away from live feed such as live bloodworm or tubifex.These carry parasites and are too risky.If your fishes have access to algaes, its the best.The more the merrier.
There are no hard and fast rules on the feeding frequency.Seasoned keepers may feed 5 to 6 times a day, but for a beginner we advice twice, or at most 3 times a day.This is because beginners tend to overfeed and is poor in water quality management.
As for soaking of pellets,no need.A waste of time.And,a waste of the nutrients dissolving into the water.


12)I know, we must change water.But,since my tank is already cycled, why do I still need to change and how much?
We change water to get rid of nitrates,organic matters,replenish lost minerals and remove growth inhibitors.Try to keep nitrates below 50ppm,and you will have much lesser problems.Nitrates accumulates linearly,and partial water changes merely dilutes them.So we say massive water changes weekly.As a rule of thumb,change at least 80% (better still 100%) of your tank water for a stock level of 100L per fish which is fed 3 times a day.
Here is a very good article on nitrates accumulation:
http://www.goldfishconnection.com/articles/details.php?articleId=67&parentId=8
Here is a discussion on growth inhibitors:
http://www.rafflesgold.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1661&hl=
Anyway,if you find these difficult to digest,just remember - CHANGE WATER.THE MORE THE MERRIER.


13)What must I add during a water change?
Anti-chlorine and chloramine.Thats all you need.Pls note that aging tap water to remove chlorine is no longer useful in Singapore; due to the introduction of chloramines.More info here:
http://www.rafflesgold.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2503&hl=


14)Must I wash the filters during water change?
You should periodically void your filters of the trapped scums.Disposable mats are best disposed.However,do not wash your filters using tap water!This is kill the BBs and you have to start your cycling all over again.Wash the medias in old tank water.


15)What is 'buffering'?I heard that it is important to buffer our water.
Whew.Easy to explain, difficult to understand in depth.It simply means preventing the pH of tank water from dropping during the nitrification process, but for a better understanding pls read this:
http://www.rafflesgold.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1561


16)I have more questions.......
Pls read point (15) again! Read and understand it.It took me quite some time to digest the material.


17)Do I need any test kits?
You can do without test kits.However,if you wish to monitor the ammonia and nitrite levels during cycling, get them.Once your tank is cycled,all you need is just a nitrate and pH test kit.Check nitrate levels before your water change to get the feel how much it has accumulated over the week and check your water pH to see if it has dropped; ie whether your water is well buffered.
There are many brands available, here are examples of nitrate and pH test kits.



18)What about quarantine?Why do we need to quarantine new buys?
To ensure that your new buy does not introduce diseases to your established tank.Read more here:
http://www.rafflesgold.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1692


19)Can I mix different types of goldfish together?
Its OK, but some species are known to bully others.Ryukins may be more aggressive,some say, but so long as the different types of goldfish all get to eat during feeding,its OK.


20)What's the difference between top view ranchu(TVR) and side view ranchu(SVR)?
Here:
http://www.rafflesgold.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1256


21)Hi,I am new here.Where can I buy nice and cheap goldfish?
Gosh,I hate this question. Nice goldfish is never cheap,and expensive goldfish does not mean it is nice either.Here is a list of LFS retailing goldfish, but some info may be out-dated:
http://www.rafflesgold.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=10
Do keep us informed if you visited the place and found that it has closed down,though.


22)OK,OK not nice and cheap goldfish.Surely you can recommend some places to get cheap accessories, such as fish food and medication?
Ah.....that's a better question.You can refer to this link 'Rafflesgold Lobang' for places with good buys.But then again, this thread was also not updated for quite some time already, so do update us if you discover any new lobangs.
http://www.rafflesgold.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1502


23)What's the most important thing to note in goldfish keeping?
The most important thing is water quality.The second most important is water quality.The third most important is water quality.The fourth most important is water quality.The fifth most important........


24)Any other advise?
That's all that I can think of at the moment.But here is another must-read,written by our good ol' Doc Goldrush:
http://www.rafflesgold.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1597


Point to note - The above pointers are written from the point of view of goldfish keeping in this region.Temperature is hot and humid all year round,and so is feeding.Conditions such as weather,temperature and water parameters may differ greatly depending on where you reside; therefore it is advisable for you to also understand the conditions of your local context and deciding for yourself what is the best keeping methology.

Posted by: KokiBali Fri, 11 Nov 2005 5:27 pm

Thanks, CP. Very helpful for newbie like me.
:

Regards,
William

Posted by: CP Fri, 11 Nov 2005 7:12 pm

My pleasure.

Just giving back what I have taken from the forum.

Posted by: goldrush Fri, 11 Nov 2005 8:25 pm

Fabulous index for everyone here whether oldies,newbies or dummies to refer.May I suggest that it be pinned for easier future reference.

Posted by: CHLeong Sat, 12 Nov 2005 8:04 pm

CP,
Recently I visited a newbie hobbyist and was sad to see his fishes' quality and conditions. This will end the interest of this hobby quickly unless the keeping methods were quickly shared.

Rgds
CHLeong

Posted by: spyke Thu, 24 Nov 2005 4:18 pm

very good information especially the 1st two questions. the rest are familiar already.

Posted by: desireless Wed, 28 Feb 2007 3:44 pm

So let me just say these one more time.... since a couple of such incident have resurfaced recently...

Experienced members here (you will agree with this in time to come) DO NOT enjoy repeating themselves over and over again. If it is not a new discussion, believe me, answer is just a few clicks away. If it is a topic that has not been discussed before, then believe me, many members will be very zealous to find the answer for you and their response will not disappoint you.

A point which many members failed to see.... You will realise that the members who take time to answer to questions are always those handful. These members have lives. Or, they have work to do: Some are enginneers, doctors, lawyers, employed staff, etc. It is NOT THEIR JOB, or rather, they are NOT PAID to sit in front of their screens answering to "frequently asked questions" in this forum. Neither are they at all OBLIGATED to answer to questions. I hope ALL members do keep this in mind at all times - Please be sensible.

Be GRATEFUL when someone takes his time off from his normal routine to answer to your queries. If your question is not answered within a few hours, then probably someone is preparing his answer, OR it could be an old, rotted and smelly topic that has been discussed many times before - All you need to do is to search for your answer then. Be fair to these active members and do consider the above, the next time you feel like asking a question which you THINK might have been discussed before, in hope to get a quick fix. In my opinion, Only DRUG ADDICTS need quick fixes!!! And if they do not get it, they get real nasty.

All the above, are just my personal opinion. Thank you for reading this.

Posted by: gohks Wed, 28 Feb 2007 5:53 pm

I suggest that whenever an old or stale question being asked, a quick reply to prompt the use of search function will do. Not all new members know about the power of the search function available in this forum. Without doing that, the other end party may be desperately and maybe patiently waiting for a reply (or no reply) as fish is dying .

This only will apply to queries that we know what he is talking about. To be fair to the mod and members, there are certain questions after reading a few times I still

Posted by: Titus Thu, 01 Mar 2007 11:37 pm

My personal opinion:

I really enjoy reading info from this forum. Lotsa indepth and even scientific discussion.

And many times I have seen the mods here pointing the right direction (as in providing the links) to the questions.

Initially, it could seem a little unfriendly. But if the hobbyist is serious and read up a bit.. search a bit.. usually can find.

However, there are times where after searching, still could not really find the right answers. And there is this fear of asking. Just in case the answer is hidden somewhere and kenna blasted.

Nonetheless, great forum!!!

Posted by: d_golem Fri, 02 Mar 2007 1:09 am

Agree. Trouble is, many people come here cos they're in trouble (e.g. fish dying/sick) so need help asap and many people also new to being in a forum, having searched the internet around to help their goldies, so they don't search first cos they con't understand how to use a forum effectively.

My personal view of RG is that RG is a GREAT forum with lots of IN DEPTH info, but only semi-serious to serious hobbyist can take an active part in here. Total newbies will sometimes feel neglected when they don't get the answer/help they're looking to receive, and may result in them abandoning the hobby altogether.

Maybe RG want to add something like "For Discerning Hobbyists" or something along those lines in the welcome page to make clear what's expected in here?

PS: My impression of RG when I first join was "OMG so scary...." and scared of posting. Now after a number of months (and lots of reading and hands-on experience), only now I feel I can take an active part here.

Posted by: goldrush Fri, 02 Mar 2007 8:19 am

Yep you will be GRILLED and DRILLED by our passionate no FRILLED sergeants before you become An "OFFICIAL"(RG member) and a not so GENTLE MAN








I CAN'T HEAR YOU MANNNNNNNNNNNN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Posted by: Titus Sat, 03 Mar 2007 11:31 pm

WHHOOOOO AHHHHHHHHH!!!!! Yes Master Sergeant sir!!!

Posted by: Dragonhead Sun, 04 Mar 2007 10:41 am

If you see a group of people you don't know at a coffeeshop, talking about goldfish, do you jump in and start asking questions?

Or do you introduce yourself, get to know the people in the group first?

Likewise, in a forum, the social etiquette is similar. And just like in a coffeeshop, if a newbie asks the group an old familiar question, you are likely to get a chuckle, and a "That one ah, been discussed many times before la.." response.

But for newbies, if a search failed to turn up the answer, no harm asking. Kena blast also no harm what... The people here I find are generally quite helpful.

As a newbie, this forum has helped me a lot, esp reading the pinned topic and using the search button. Thanks, and good job guys. Keep it up.

Posted by: gohks Sun, 04 Mar 2007 11:47 am

Note that we are in an "Open" forum with different people from different part of the world of different culture participating. Everybody approach will be different.
In the forum, we trying a apply one rule cater all system which the mod is trying hard to improve on that, which I view as a tough job . Anyway this is also happening in other forum which I do not see any good solution so far.

Posted by: chochiss Mon, 05 Mar 2007 12:25 pm

Support!

Posted by: twinso Tue, 30 Oct 2007 5:23 pm

""1)What is the recommended tank size to keep goldfish?
We recommend at least a 3ft tank.So, 3, 4,5 or 6ft tanks are ideal""

sorry but i have to do this in caps

HOW MUCH IS A FT? in metres?.. ft=foot. so ... 1 m???? omg a 4 metre high tank??!!! thats like 30cm x 4??? 120 cm ??? thats like massive and cost...... at least $400 to buy =S it relli kills my brain when people say inches and ft. we dont teach the metric system here -.- and google takes forever to find a good site that does conversions ...
ok again ft-foot right... so i imagine 3 of my feet but wat for widt, lenght, height??!?!?!

argh
m + cm pls =(

Posted by: twinso Tue, 30 Oct 2007 5:35 pm

nvm above msg ->

read the L and realise the meaning.... 50 L per fishy? =S gosh...... thats a lot of water and us here in aus are in super big 20 yr drought OO" plus change it couple time weekly OO

sure 50L is too much for a 4cm fish like mine? lol

4cm fish in a 50 litre tank =S so much exercise....

but yea inches and ft are still confusing !!!!!!!!!

* after reading the full step by step thingy... -takes gravel out of fish tank-

Posted by: CP Wed, 07 Nov 2007 1:41 pm

Hi twinso,

Here fish tanks are sold in terms of feet (or foot). Imperial measurement. One metre is about 3.3 feet.

A four feet tank for eg, refers to its lenght. So when we say our tank is 4x2x2, it means four feet long, two feet wide and two feet in height.

Posted by: tommy2510 Tue, 17 Jun 2008 8:40 pm

Hi everyone...

Posted by: fishyaffair Tue, 17 Jun 2008 11:29 pm

hi everybuddy!!!!

i used to be confused by foots measurements too, but i learnt this frm the building my own guinea pigs cage.

1 ft = 30 cm
and of cos we know: 1 m = 100 cm
do the math i believe urs are a lot better than mine

realised its an old query but it nvr harm to keep a record!

Posted by: benthenk Mon, 20 Apr 2009 9:56 am

as newbie i have many knowledge from this topic,
Thank You For The Article. Nice And Good

Posted by: ktm Fri, 13 Nov 2009 6:26 pm

Thanks CP for the basic advises.

much appreciated.

Posted by: Wilgan Wed, 07 Jul 2010 2:06 pm

Very infomative for a newbie like me. Just cross over from koi.

Posted by: freddy_vesalius Mon, 16 Aug 2010 11:06 pm

That's very nice tips..very informative n applicable..

Posted by: Anniko Thu, 21 Oct 2010 6:29 pm

Thank you for the tips...I learnt a lot!

Posted by: white horse T1 Mon, 25 Oct 2010 2:56 pm

why my healthy fishes and QT fishes can just die after water change?


Ans: Even the most seasoned hobbists wll encountred this problem somewhat.

During a recent water change, 5 of my healthy fishes overturned and were dead in less than 3hrs.

i ruled out diseases. so it must be water - either the chemical toxity due to recent haze or PH. But i did pour a lot of anti chlorine an anti chloramines . i consulted my arowana friend on the symptom experienced.


Symptom on Sudden Dealth

Fish mouth is open wide and colour remain vibrant , seem like a lot slime on body and stomach is hardened.



Diagnosis

High to Low PH water

i used to have PH Crash when my water is abt 5 and the fishes are coated with wool like slime when they come from PH 7-8 water



Low PH to High PH water

but when the fish comes from low PH water to higher PH , they wll discharge slime like coat and appear to be in shock. NO amt of salt or water change can cure the fish thereafter.

for my case, this seem to be the root cause and not due to insufficient chemical and new water chemcial syndrome.


Preventive Measures

Acclimatising the fish to the new water is essential especially during water change.
do partial water change, introduce new water slowly to tank is the key.
some fish may still be sensitive to minor PH swing




---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Posted by: clovergirl Sat, 18 Aug 2012 4:29 pm

Hi All!

I am a somewhat beginner and I have owned my floating gumball aka Oranda Goldfish named Titan for a little over a year now. As some of you know Orandas can grow pretty big dispite their tank size, and when I first bought him he aslo had a companion who sadly died this spring. Anyways I have recently gotten a 30-ish? gallon tank from my brother who had an aquaponics system and I really want to add to Titan's tank environment by bringing in not only another goldfish companion but also possibly some small schools of fish. I really want to make it seem like his natural habitat.

Does anyone have any tips on what non-aggressive freshwater fishies I can buy that would play well with my baby?

What type of filters can I use to keep the bottom and water relatively clean? I wont be able to do as many water changes this year as I have started a fulltime job and I will be going to school to finish my degrees