Help - Search - Members - Calendar
Full Version: Cp's Tank And Filtration Setup
RafflesGold Forums > Discussion Area > Green Water, Filtration and Tank Setup
CP
A belated Christmas to all.

I've had my current tank for the past 15 months now and over Christmas I did a total stripdown of the filter (yes,after 15 months!!).I thot it may be interesting to share with you guys the setup of my tank so the end result was a wet digicam.....

Here is a pic of my tank:
IPB Image

Its 7x2x2,the filter measures 7x10"x10".The tank capacity is abt 700litres,and the filter contains another 100l.Currently there are only 4 occupants, 2ranchus and 2 ryukins,so they now have the luxury of 200l per fish.I have another 9 ranchus currently on vacation in outdoor rental ponds.

The max no of fish I ever keep in this tank is 9,in which the nitrate levels will rise to 50ppm before my weekly water change.I perform 80% water changes weekly irrespective of the number of fishes,and currently with only these four buggers the nitrate levels hardly reaches 25ppm by end of the week.

The setup of my tank is fairly simple,with an Eheim 1260(2400l/hr) pumping up to the OHF and a RENA 400 airpump.
IPB Image
IPB Image

Notice that the airpump is housed under the tank.I find using a non return valve will reduce the output drastically so I have a loop above the water level before the hose turns back down into the pump,so that water is not drawn into the pump when turned off.
IPB Image
CP
Now for the filter.

There had been no outbreak of dieseases (touch wood) which was why I can wait before the cleaning.Here are two views of the filter from above.
IPB Image
IPB Image


It has 5 compartments.
CP
The first compartment,where water is fed in, contains Jap filter mats.
IPB Image

The second contains corals and Bio-home.
IPB Image
IPB Image


The third is oyster shells.
IPB Image
CP
The 4th contains zeolites.I see no purpose of using zeolites actually (unless during start up of tank to remove ammonia),their adsorbtion capacity has been used up long ago and I had not bothered to re-charge them.I am replacing this compartment with oyster shell after this spring cleaning.Any bros interested can PM me and I will give it away FOC,but you have to re-charge them yourself! biggrin.gif
I have abt 5kg of these,and was told that these are with volcanic properties and are from Japan.
IPB Image


The last compartment is a has a piece of perforated plastic sheet where water is spread thinly before entering the bio-ball compartment.This to to max. surface contact with air for max. DO.A bag of activated carbon is slot before that.
I've heard of some products using bio-balls to reduce nitrates (I think they call it trickle filter).Though my setup is similiar the purpose is to max DO as I believe that nitrates cannot be reduced by this method.
IPB Image
IPB Image


Another view of the last compartment.
IPB Image
CP
Design of the filter compartments:

I always have crystal clear water without the use of fine (and disposable) filter mats or water clear additives.Suspended solids clouds the water so the key word for clear water is SEDIMENTATION.
The design of the filter its has to induce sedimentation.The trick is to "force the water to rise",and sedimentation will naturally occur.
Note how the compartments are designed in the sketch.The arrows represents water direction.
IPB Image

IPB Image

Here is a pic of the trapped sedimentation.
IPB Image

I have a gap of abt 20mm below and the build up is abt 5mm.So I reckon that it will take 4 years before the filter is choked.
CP
Some of the products that I use.

Anti-chlorine/chloramine.Dosage is 5ml per 80l of water.500ml bottle costs $10, 3.8l costs $62/=.The big bottle can last me a year.
IPB Image

Activated carbon.$35,contains 4 satchets inside.I replace 1 bag every 3 months,so one bottle of this can also last me a year.
IPB Image

Bacteria culture.I also see no need for this product,and after 1 year I still have more than one quarter left.Will not use anymore when this bottle is finished.
IPB Image

I use oyster shells to buffer the water.It is said to dissolve once the pH falls below 7.5.Generally the pH of my water will be raised by a few tenths (from 7.5 tap to 7.8) after abt a week.The coral shells also add to the alkalinity.
A bag of these costs $15, and I reckon these can last me 10 years.
IPB Image

Here you see a dissolved oyster shell which has been in use for the last 15 months.
IPB Image
CP
The fishes are transferred into my bathtub.
IPB Image
IPB Image


The filter materials are removed out.They almost fill 4 big pails.
IPB Image


The filter is then cleaned and tank refilled with water.Fishes are put back in.
IPB Image


The filter materials are then washed in the bathtub.My gosh!
Suprisingly,there is no foul smell.In fact,the smell is rather pleasant,like 'smell of garden soil after it rains.'
IPB Image
CP
Almost done! smile.gif

The mesh,mat and filter materials goes back in.
IPB Image
IPB Image
IPB Image


The filter is clean,and now I can see right through to the other end.
IPB Image

There goes my Christmas,to be repeated again next Christmas. sad.gif
mountain
usually i let my cleaned filters run in the tank for 1/2 hr before i put back some fish ..
but no definite way of doing OHF/IOS .. as long as washing things is convenient.
CP
Some of my fish pics,I use the Goldrush method to take the pics.
My hand is also shown to gauge the fish size.The tip of my middle finger to the base of my palm is 7 inches.I wish another part of my body is also 7 inches......

IPB Image
IPB Image
IPB Image
IPB Image
IPB Image
IPB Image
IPB Image
IPB Image



Thats all for now.Hope I did not waste too much board space. blush.gif
desireless
My fishes will be SO ENVIOUS of your fishes!!!!!! good_very.gif

Can you please explain more on the 1st pictures on the filter compartmet? Why is the 1st and 2nd drawing impractical? So for sedimentation to occur, you force the water up quicker? If you allow sedimentation, won't you need to clean the compartments more often to ensure clear water? Please enlighten, thanks!
CP
QUOTE(desireless @ Sun, 26 Dec 2004 11:02 pm)
My fishes will be SO ENVIOUS of your fishes!!!!!!  good_very.gif

Can you please explain more on the 1st pictures on the filter? Why is the 1st and 2nd drawing impractical?
*


In the 1st pic there is not much resistance.The sediments simply follow the flow of the water,in and out.
The 2nd and 3rd pic are very similiar but the water flow is totally different.In the 2nd pic,the water direction in the filter compartment is downwards.As the sediments flow downwards with the water,once they reach the bottom they will be carried by the water back up to the next compartment.
In the 3rd pic,the water flow in the compartment is upwards.As water travels up thru the filter mat,sediments will have to defy gravity and will tend to settle.The water overflows into the next compartment.
Catch the ball?
CP
I dont know how to groom fish,so this is what i do to groom a fish - NATURE.Algae and sunlight.
IPB Image


Visited them today,some pics.
IPB Image
IPB Image
IPB Image
IPB Image
IPB Image
CP
Does this piece look familiar?

IPB Image
IPB Image
IPB Image
IPB Image
IPB Image
IPB Image
LASERGUY
QUOTE(cpiw2002 @ Sun, 26 Dec 2004 11:30 pm)
I dont know how to groom fish,so this is what i do to groom a fish - NATURE.Algae and sunlight.

*



Ah, think I kind of recognised the setup and place......
desireless
QUOTE(LASERGUY @ Mon, 27 Dec 2004 12:28 am)
Ah, think I kind of recognised the setup and place......
*


Hahaha, that's the place when you fell into the nearby well right? biggrin.gif
CP
Heh heh heh you guys really boh beh chow
Allan
QUOTE(cpiw2002 @ Sun, 26 Dec 2004 9:25 pm)
 
Its 7x2x2,the filter measures 7x10"x10".The tank capacity is abt 700litres,and the filter contains another 100l.Currently there are only 4 occupants, 2ranchus and 2 ryukins,so they now have the luxury of 200l per fish.I have another 9 ranchus currently on vacation in outdoor rental ponds. 
 
The max no of fish I ever keep in this tank is 9,in which the nitrate levels will rise to 50ppm before my weekly water change.I perform 80% water changes weekly irrespective of the number of fishes,and currently with only these four buggers the nitrate levels hardly reaches 25ppm by end of the week. 
*
 

Nice write up and cool setup! You didn't mention much about aeration except about the equipment. At 200 litres per fish I guess the existing aeration setup is okay. I guess that's why you don't have to pay much attention. Remember Goldfish needs more DO than many other type of ornamental fishes the next time you change the stock ratio.

I don't know if I should say this seeing you enjoy setting up filtration (and does it so well!) but your existing stock ratio and weekly water change habit probably doesn't need any filtration at all!

Without filtration, nitrate will not be present. You only need to worry about Ammonia... but at 200 litres per fish, the ammonia level will probably be lower than many bros' filtered setup, or a crowded greenwater tub! biggrin.gif

No nitrate - happy big fish.
jhansolo
QUOTE(cpiw2002 @ Sun, 26 Dec 2004 10:09 pm)

The design of the filter its has to induce sedimentation.The trick is to "force the water to rise",and sedimentation will naturally occur.
*



I've been thinking about this for a long time ... now it is in action. I think a simple monthly maintenance where the gunk is taken out once a month, in your present system just put a tube into the the overflow.

yours the best ... if only My Ministry of home affairs can agree cry.gif
mountain
QUOTE(cpiw2002 @ Sun, 26 Dec 2004 10:36 pm)
The filter materials are then washed in the bathtub.My gosh!
Suprisingly,there is no foul smell.In fact,the smell is rather pleasant,like 'smell of garden soil after it rains.'

*



while it makes most of us who plays with Biofiltration feel cool when we see the dirtyness it has accumulated. but do check your biomaterials as they have a high chance of getting cloaked up.. when they gets cloaked up.. the filtration can crash any minute.
white horse T1
QUOTE(Allan @ Mon, 27 Dec 2004 10:50 am)
No nitrate - happy big fish.
*



Cp
i just have one question:
does it make u happy too to see a big tank with only 4 fishes?

even arowana owner will envy the tank space u had.
u ve allow ample space and a presumably a good water quality environemnt for the goldfish growth, fish will defintely be happy.

coming from the aesthetic perspective, unless u have 4 big bruces, i can't help it by finding yr tank having the "hollow" look. it is of course less disturbing than seeing a overcrowded tank.

correct me if i am wrong, i thought this tank used to house an arowana before? very familiar
CP
QUOTE(Allan @ Mon, 27 Dec 2004 10:50 am)
Nice write up and cool setup!  You didn't mention much about aeration except about the equipment.  At 200 litres per fish I guess the existing aeration setup is okay. I guess that's why you don't have to pay much attention.  Remember Goldfish needs more DO than many other type of ornamental fishes the next time you change the stock ratio.

I don't know if I should say this seeing you enjoy setting up filtration (and does it so well!) but your existing stock ratio and weekly water change habit probably doesn't need any filtration at all!

Without filtration, nitrate will not be present.  You only need to worry about Ammonia... but at 200 litres per fish, the ammonia level will probably be lower than many bros' filtered setup, or a crowded greenwater tub!  biggrin.gif

No nitrate - happy big fish.
*


200l per fish only at this moment.I used to keep up to 8 or 9.

The Rena pumps out 400l/hr for aeration.I dont measure the DO level,but I guess that the DO will be sufficient even without the airpump.

There are 3 main areas where water is heavily agitated:
1)The inlet from the filter back to the main tank.It produces so much noise and splash I had to submerge the inlet into the water.The capacity of the Eheim circulates the tank water 3 times every hour.
2)The first compartment of the filter.Water drawn from the pump produces agitation.
3)The last compartment,where water is spread thinly over the perforated plate before trickling into the bio-balls.

But anyway,wtf,just provide airpump la.No harm to over aerate,it provides backup in case the Eheim spoils and provides aesthetically looking bubbles as well.
CP
QUOTE(mountain @ Mon, 27 Dec 2004 11:08 am)
while it makes most of us who plays with Biofiltration feel cool when we see the dirtyness it has accumulated. but do check your biomaterials as they have a high chance of getting cloaked up.. when they gets cloaked up.. the filtration can crash any minute.
*


There is no pic to show,I'll try to put it in words.
The intermedite partitions are set 2 inches lower than the height of the filter.If one compartment chokes,the water will not pass thru but will overflow to the next compartment.
CP
QUOTE(white horse T1 @ Mon, 27 Dec 2004 11:11 am)
Cp
i just have one question: 
does it make u happy too to see a big tank with only 4 fishes? 

even arowana owner will envy the tank space u had.
u ve allow ample space and a presumably a good water quality environemnt for the goldfish growth, fish will defintely be happy. 

coming from the aesthetic perspective, unless u have 4 big bruces, i can't help it by finding yr tank  having the "hollow" look.  it is of course less disturbing than seeing a overcrowded tank.

correct me if i am wrong, i thought this tank used to house an arowana before? very familiar
*


I have slowly come to realise (personal preference) that no point having plenty of average looking fishes,keep upgrading and waste money.Everytime I purchase a new fish,I will keep watching and admiring it without paying much attention to the rest,until I get another new fish.
If I have a pair of solid tokong showgrades now,I wouldn't mind having just 2 even.You are right,I am not really satisfied at the moment,still contemplating whether to rid all the average looking ones and replace with a few solid ones.

The size of the tank is due to 2 reasons:
1)I had to get it custom made so that my two existing cabinets can fit under it.Its exact lenght is 2.16m, or 7'1".
2)Should I get tired of goldfish one day and decided to keep aro instead,I would have got a suitable tank!

But I would advise against this size.Max 6 ft.This tank barely just made it into the elevator.The stand that you see had to come up by the staircase!!
Its takes 6 persons to carry,and you need to use suction pads to handle it.It was made by my friend who is in the glass industry,who refused payment from me but I paid him anyway;a sum which I do not wish to disclose.
desireless
Haha.. I was also wondering how one could see to a 6 footer (and above) tank into a flat. I stayed at the 13th floor and have a hard time fitting a 4ft tank into the small lift. Anything more than that will have to climb the stairs... hmm.gif

I think it is good to have a friend in the construction industry... Who knows you'll be needing a crane when you upgrade your tank?

"WATCH OUT! Tank coming in by the window!!" laugh.gif
CP
QUOTE(desireless @ Mon, 27 Dec 2004 3:13 pm)
I think it is good to have a friend in the construction industry... Who knows you'll be needing a crane when you upgrade your tank?


*


What?!!Want to upgrade so more ah!

I fail to add, a simple water change takes almost 3 hrs. sad.gif
1 hr to siphon the water,another one and a half to fill.Got time to finish a movie in between.
Allan
QUOTE(cpiw2002 @ Sun, 26 Dec 2004 10:09 pm)
Design of the filter compartments:

I always have crystal clear water without the use of fine (and disposable) filter mats or water clear additives.Suspended solids clouds the water so the key word for clear water is SEDIMENTATION.
The design of the filter its has to induce sedimentation.The trick is to "force the water to rise",and sedimentation will naturally occur.
Note how the compartments are designed in the sketch.The arrows represents water direction.
*


Thank you for sharing the above. It's something new to me and I'm glad I now know about it.

If you study closely, design number 1 and 3 are essentially the same. #3 may be better because it has three "ups" versus #1's only two.

But #1's current as it goes "up" may be weaker/slower compared to #3's narrowed downward thrust generating a stronger upward push.

... just a piece of my mind on this matter for your reading pleasure. tongue.gif
mountain
QUOTE(cpiw2002 @ Mon, 27 Dec 2004 3:28 pm)
What?!!Want to upgrade so more ah!

I fail to add, a simple water change takes almost 3 hrs. sad.gif
1 hr to siphon the water,another one and a half to fill.Got time to finish a movie in between.
*



bro .. your 3hrs .. does it include the filter cleaning?? Gee !! 3 hrs can really finish a Alexander gay movie!!
CP
QUOTE(mountain @ Mon, 27 Dec 2004 5:17 pm)
bro .. your 3hrs .. does it include the filter cleaning?? Gee !! 3 hrs can really finish a Alexander gay movie!!
*


No.Water change only. sad.gif

This post is showing the filter cleaning for the 1st time.The whole process about 6 hrs from 10am to 4pm.Intention to do it once a year.
goldrush
Thxs bro cpiw 2002 for sharing your “monster”with us
You have highlighted on the concept of sedimentation which are derived from large pond setup and you manage to package it in a concise and workable filtration system. However I hope that the mere maintaining of the system does not hamper your festive mood every year so to speak. Your system have the luxury of five compartments.The first compartment should be the sedimentation chamber whereby the water inlet should be introduced and impeded by spray bar against some resistance to allow residual solids to accumulate at the bottom.You have done well by incorporating the mat. However perhaps of the massive bioload of the incoming debris ,the mechanical filtration should be clean more often, sparing the effort to touch the biological section of the system.Your grid system is superb in encompassing debris in a confine location. But without a backflush system and bottom drain,this may be area where anaerobic activities may harbour, so perhaps periodic siphoning through the grid may be helpful in reducing scum and reduce likelihood of bad bacteria activity.I have noticed also that you have housed your filtration media in nets which facilitate removal and easier maintenance kudo to your ingenious idea.One question for you is ,are the compartments covered in any way if not do you run into midge problem(bloodworm turning into adult midges)I have noticed that you have some money plants feeding on the first compartment?Correct me if I’m wrong.Nitrates are highest after the last biological activity,so try to incorporate into the final compartment before your trickle system.I hope by periodic mechanical washing and flushing it will reduce your time taken to do a complete overhaul and eliminate your backbreaking feat every Christmas


Cheers
goldrush
good.gif good.gif good.gif
CP
Bro Goldrush,
Thank you very much for the advise. smile.gif

I wish to clarify to all that I am not that ingenious as some of you may think,rather I am fortunate to have the guidance of a good friend (who made this tank and keeps koi) who actually designed this system as a miniature replica of his koi filtration system.And it worked!I hope to show his system some day (no pic now),its really huge.

We did toy around with the idea of having a backflush (just like his) by incorporating a valve at the bottom of each compartment but finally decided not to as it will be risky opening a hole and risk breaking the glass.I thus have no choice but to do the cleaning less often (once a year).I actually wonder whether besides risking accumulation of bad bacteria,whether these sludge will continuously produce nitrates.thinking.gif

The compartments are not covered as I presume this will make the bio-system more oxygen rich,for the cultivation of good BB.I do encounter mosquito larves (and adults) for the first two months and as my friend had correctly predicted,it is only during the initial stages of the set-up.I dont see red bloodworms in the later stages,but every now and then there will be mini white worms which turns into small insects.These are not a bother,though,otherwise my OC will be the first to scream.

I wish to add that small snails(less than 5mm) are very common,their numbers can be in the hundreds in the filter with the occasional few present in the tank.This,I was told,is a good sign of a healthy filtration and good water quality.Do you agree?

The money plants are a failure,they dont seem to grow (I hope its because nitrates are low biggrin.gif ),so now I will transfer to the last compartment as advised.

Regards
good.gif
CHLeong
QUOTE(cpiw2002 @ Tue, 28 Dec 2004 2:26 pm)
Bro Goldrush,
Thank you very much for the advise. smile.gif

I wish to clarify......last compartment as advised.

Regards
good.gif
*



Truly enjoy such exchanges, extremely informative!

good_very.gif

Rgds
CH Leong
white horse T1
QUOTE(cpiw2002 @ Tue, 28 Dec 2004 2:26 pm)
I wish to add that small snails(less than 5mm) are very common,their numbers can be in the hundreds in the filter with the occasional few present in the tank.This,I was told,is a good sign of a healthy filtration and good water quality.Do you agree?
*



i think snail is a sickening pest and i ve "one permanent residential" puffer fish eating them up in the sump tank now. don't snail increase the ammonia level also.?
CP
QUOTE(white horse T1 @ Tue, 28 Dec 2004 5:20 pm)
i think snail is a sickening pest and i ve "one permanent residential" puffer fish eating them up in the sump tank now.  don't snail increase the ammonia level also.?
*


I dont mind them really,they are in the filter and not in the main tank.

Is "sump tank" refering to your filter tank?From what I know,puffer fish is known to attack goldfishes.
white horse T1
QUOTE(cpiw2002 @ Tue, 28 Dec 2004 6:00 pm)
I dont mind them really,they are in the filter and not in the main tank.
*




my puffer stay in the so called "filtered" compartment which i called the sump tank/ the names meant the same thing except that the configuration is slightly different.
the pt is i am getting rid of the snail as pest but u seem to encourage their growth as indicator for good water quality. is snail then an indicator for good water quality for u? or they just appear by accident? i know the smail in mine occur bec i did not QT the plants
CP
QUOTE(white horse T1 @ Tue, 28 Dec 2004 10:07 pm)
my puffer stay in the so called "filtered" compartment which i called the sump tank/  the names meant the same thing except that the configuration is slightly different. 
the pt is i am getting rid of the snail as pest but u seem to encourage their growth as indicator for good water quality. is snail then an indicator for good water quality for u? or they just appear by accident?  i know the smail in mine occur bec i did not QT the plants
*


I do not encourage their growth,just that I dont see them as pests.I do not know where they come from,and I do not have any plants,but I notice that their numbers will increase whenever I add in the bacteria culture.
What i do realise is that their life span is short.
I was told by my friend that it is an indication of good water quality,whether that is the truth or not I cannot confirm.
infocus
Bro cpiw2002,

Your write-up inspires me to set up a bigger and better tank for my ranchus. shiok.gif Too bad my house don't have anymore space for that liao. Anyway OC will not approve the project. mad.gif

Just hope to do it one day when I shift to a bigger place. Well done for sharing the informative info you have. good_very.gif
CP
An update after 4 days following the spring cleaning:

Nitrate levels were zero immediately after the water change. happydance.gif It was a surprise,considering the fact that tap water in my area usually has nitrates up to 12.5ppm.3 teaspoons of bacteria culture was administered the day following the water change.

I had just tested for nitrates and the reading was 12.5ppm after four days of heavy feeding.For these four buggers,they were fed BWs in the morning and night(1 cube per fish per feeding) and 4 feedings of Hikari Lionhead in between (3 clicks on food timer).Thats 6 meals a day.

I am glad that the tank is cycled after just a few days. smile.gif
CP
Dear fellow RG members,

Allow me to share a tip on how to enhance the looks of your tank.You may have already known it,or you may not have realised it.Most of you may feel that the fish and water quality is of paramount importance (I agree) and enhancing tank looks is somewhat sissy,there may be some members out there who may want the looks of the tank to be part of the home decor,or at least be presentable.

Most of us has been to Qian Hu,if you have stepped into the two rooms I believe it gives you the impression of a 'classy feel'.Fish worth $100 can sell for $200.The trick is pretty simple actually, conceal the water level and the glass edges (joints),the achieve the 'picture frame effect'.

This is what I mean by concealing the water level and glass joints to achieve the picture frame effect.Better still if you can conceal the two tank edges as well.You can purchase these stickers at most LFS.
IPB Image
desireless
Picture of the legendary tank restored... sweatingbullets.gif thanks to cpiw2002! good_very.gif
CP
It was exactly a year ago that I had penned this thread;how time flies, its the time of the year again for my filter spring cleaning.It was carried out yesterday,everything was pretty much the same,and there was no outbreak of diseases over the past year.

Only difference is that sometime in June this year, I had introduced a tray holding filter mats to trap the solids prior to the water discharge into the first compartment.The mats are replaced forthnightly.I reckon that these mats reduces the trapped scums in the filter by as much as 75%.The scums in the filter were significantly much lesser than last year's.

\"IPB
mountain
scums (bags of them) rolleyes.gif plays a important part in the system .. too much and they clogs up the bio-medias and you got a timebomb at home! Gee .. because of these, i gotta wash them 6 times a year, thats 600 percent effort more than you laugh.gif
CyberET
wait till u see the live worms i've got in my koi pond filter..
i gotta soak myself in detol after washing the filter once every 6months
Hamad
This is such an amazing set up CP! Your fish look beautiful and healthy, I envy you!

But I have 2 questions, I already own an external Fluval 403 filter [for my 55gallon (200l) tank, which I haven't set up yet]. If I fill it up with what you have in your compartments, would the result be similar?

Also you mentioned that you use zeolites to remove ammonia, doesn't that affect cycling a tank? I'm still unexperienced when it comes to different water products so bear with me if I sound stupid LOL

Thanks for sharing all this with us! biggrin.gif
CP
Thanks Hamad for your compliment.

I have no experience in Fluval (is it a cannister?) therefore I am unable to comment.As for zeolites, I had mentioned that i have done away with it as it serves no purpose because not only is has an adsorbtion limit but also because we actually need ammonia in order to cycle the tank.In short, zeolites are totally unecessary in a filtered tank setup.

A cycled tank is not the way to groom a beautiful fish.goldfish are best kept outdoors and I treat my home cycled tank as a "display", where my fishes are rotated between outdoor ponds(for grooming) and home tank (for appreciation).
Hamad
Ok so by that you mean a cycled tank can't be a permanent home for quality goldfish?
CP
You keep them alive, but you do not bring the best out of them.
Hamad
So you mean it would maintain how they are right now but there'll be no further improvements unless they are shifted between greenwater and blue water every several months, correct?

Sorry if I'm annoying you with this, but what you're saying goes against the belief of 100's of thousands of other hobbyists so it needs to be clear, and I simply want to learn from you cause obviouly you know better and had great results that validates your point.
CP
QUOTE(Hamad @ Mon, 02 Jan 2006 6:15 pm)
So you mean it would maintain how they are right now but there'll be no further improvements unless they are shifted between greenwater and blue water every several months, correct?

*


No, it would not even maintain,especially the colouration.I noticed that fishes 'harvested' back into my tank from outdoor ponds generally loses it colouration, or the 'luster',after 3 months indoor.The scales will lose the shine, the colours at the tails and fins will also start to fade.

But when transferred back outdoors, it will regain it brilliance and luster, and bulk.
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.
Invision Power Board © 2001-2017 Invision Power Services, Inc.