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Full Version: Ammonia In Your Tap Water? 0.25ppm?
RafflesGold Forums > Discussion Area > Green Water, Filtration and Tank Setup
ranchu8
Hi

ammonia in my tank water has not turned to 0, still within 0.25 ppm. So I did a 30% water change and ammonia level appeared slightly higher! I tested my tap water and it registered slightly higher than 0.25ppm ohmy.gif This was totally unexpected. I then rinse my test tube several times and checked again - same results good_no.gif

What is the ammonia level of your tap water and tank water? I checked the pub water web page and didn't find anything about ammonia in tap water??
CP
Wah,first your tap water is pH 8.8 now ammonia is 0.25ppm.I suggest you move out from Bukit Timah and live somewhere else! biggrin.gif (joking)

You see,the combination of these two parameters is bordering dangerous levels.
See this link.
http://www.RafflesGold.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8

However,ammonia levels in tap or otherwise is normally not a problem if your tank is cycled and the BBs are sufficient to cope with the bio load.I have never bothered to test for ammonia (dun even have a test kit for it) cause I know my tank is cycled.

Ammonia exists in our tap water in the form of chloramines (ammonia+chlorine) and it is a reasonably stable compound unless it is treated with anti-chloramine or heavily agitated for a few days.Chloramine when broken up will result in chlorine and ammonia.

So I find it quite strange to detect ammonia straight from tap.Any bros here (er, and sisters of course) ever tested for ammonia in tap water?
jhansolo
QUOTE(ranchu8 @ Fri, 25 Mar 2005 4:39 pm)
What is the ammonia level of your tap water and tank water?  I checked the pub water web page and didn't find anything about ammonia in tap water??
*



Try another test kit. I would suggest use a anti-chlorine like Prime that binds ammonia.
GFSLAVE
QUOTE(jhansolo @ Mon, 28 Mar 2005 10:18 am)
I would suggest use a anti-chlorine like Prime that binds ammonia.
*



I thought Prime works by removing chlorine from the water and then binds with ammonia until it is consumed by our biological filtration (chloramine minus chlorine = ammonia). That means after adding Prime, bonded ammonia is still available in the new water and those using liquid based test kit may show/read ammonia exists and thus give you a false positive.

Correct me if I'm wrong tongue.gif
jhansolo
QUOTE(GFSLAVE @ Mon, 28 Mar 2005 1:40 pm)
I thought Prime works by removing chlorine from the water and then binds with ammonia until it is consumed by our biological filtration (chloramine minus chlorine = ammonia). That means after adding Prime, bonded ammonia is still available in the new water and those using liquid based test kit may show/read ammonia exists and thus give you a false positive.

Correct me if I'm wrong  tongue.gif
*



wrong. No it does not show up in my test, please tell me otherwise as in the brand of test kits.
ranchu8
Thanks for all the info.

er, I don't think there's anything wrong with Red Sea's test kit which I recently bought. Its expiry date is in 2006 or 2007. I am to wait for 15 minutes for the colour to stabilise. The colour changed from 0 ppm to within 0.25 ppm in 15 minutes. The colour changed to a darker shade for tap water.

Can JHanSolo pls let me know what is the the first level after 0 ppm your test kit register and the brand? Is there ammonia in your tap water?

Is it that some ammonia becomes "loose" from the chloramine bond? Thanks again.
jhansolo
QUOTE(ranchu8 @ Mon, 28 Mar 2005 5:12 pm)
The colour changed from 0 ppm to within 0.25 ppm in 15 minutes.  The colour changed to a darker shade for tap water. 

Can JHanSolo pls let me know what is the the first level after 0 ppm your test kit register and the brand?  Is there ammonia in your tap water?

Is it that some ammonia becomes "loose" from the chloramine bond?  Thanks again.
*



15 minutes just to test water ... man

I'm using this

http://www.diywatertesting.com/aquachekpond_ammonia.html

No ammonia from my tap. As for why your have ammonia from your tap, I can't make any wild guess. Again I would suggest Prime to help with your cycle at least.
CP
QUOTE(ranchu8 @ Mon, 28 Mar 2005 5:12 pm)
Thanks for all the info.

er, I don't think there's anything wrong with Red Sea's test kit which I recently bought.  Its expiry date is in 2006 or 2007.  I am to wait for 15 minutes for the colour to stabilise.  The colour changed from 0 ppm to within 0.25 ppm in 15 minutes.  The colour changed to a darker shade for tap water. 

Can JHanSolo pls let me know what is the the first level after 0 ppm your test kit register and the brand?  Is there ammonia in your tap water?

Is it that some ammonia becomes "loose" from the chloramine bond?  Thanks again.
*


I think Red Seas test kit is not bad,but more expensive.I just got hold of a Red Sea Nitrate Test kit after finishing my Tetra Nitrate test.They offer a better differentiation on the lower ranges compared to Tetra's.But then again price is $20 compared to Tetra's $13.

Anyway,just tested Woodlands area tap water and its 10ppm nitrates. mad.gif

Ranchu8,like I mentioned earlier if your tank is cycled,dont worry about the ammonia levels.
ranchu8
QUOTE(cpiw2002 @ Mon, 28 Mar 2005 10:17 pm)
They offer a better differentiation on the lower ranges ...
*



Thanks, the Red Sea's nitrite test kit also gives a better differentiation than many others, if I am correct. I compared a number of test kits before purchasing it. I believe the ammonia test kit also... smile.gif
jhansolo
QUOTE(cpiw2002 @ Mon, 28 Mar 2005 10:17 pm)
Ranchu8,like I mentioned earlier if your tank is cycled,dont worry about the ammonia levels.
*



I don't agree that the ammonia levels should be ignored. if it is in your tap, remove it before adding to the tank.

ammonia will result in nitrate in a matured tank.
The Matrix
QUOTE(jhansolo @ Tue, 29 Mar 2005 11:20 am)
I don't agree that the ammonia levels should be ignored.  if it is in your tap, remove it before adding to the tank.

ammonia will result in nitrate in a matured tank.
*



the amount of ammonia converted to nitrate as the result of oxidization is not significant to the amount produced by the fish in 1 day.

edited .... added

suddenly remember this ... ammonia toxicity varies according to pH, temperature. yes, you might be right, ammonia should not be ignored.
GFSLAVE
What we have here is a chart at 25 degrees celsius. How or where to find a chart at 27 degrees celsius (ie my average water temperature).

Any ideas ?

Thanks
jhansolo
QUOTE(The Matrix @ Tue, 29 Mar 2005 11:26 pm)
edited .... added
*



sifu you have been doing a lot editing at midnight man.

I'm glad you see the danger that I'm smelling. If I have ammonia from my tap I'll 100% use purigen or zeolite to remove that. Considering my tank ph is maintained at 8, any trace of ammonia is dangerous.
The Matrix
QUOTE(jhansolo @ Wed, 30 Mar 2005 10:34 am)
sifu you have been doing a lot editing at midnight man.

I'm glad you see the danger that I'm smelling.  If I have ammonia from my tap I'll 100% use purigen or zeolite to remove that.  Considering my tank ph is maintained at 8, any trace of ammonia is dangerous.
*



dun worry so much lah. What's measured in the test kits are Total Ammonia.

Look at the package box ... did it spelled NH3 alone or NH3/NH4+ ??? kekekeke. Measuring of Total Ammonia is not just using 1 test kit alone. You need a conversion table, thermometer and a pH test kit.

To even make it more sophiscated, a salinity test kit to test for salt content NaCl concentration and Ca+ test kit to test for Calcium pressence. All these affect the toxicity.

Equation ? kekekeke .... just ensure our tank water measureable T.Ammonia is not exceeding 0.5pp,

different test kit use different reactants. Some reactants are extremely sensitive to nitrogen ions. Some only test for certain form of nitrogens. No matter what one use, just check the fish 2-3 hours after water change. The only sure way.
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