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infocus
I'm designing a sump for my pond. All suggestion are welcome to improve the design.

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CyberET
UV after filtration would be better.
your fine wool will choke very fast if feeding is heavy.
replace bio-balls with bio-rings would increase filtration capacity.

bottom drain underneath the japanese matt will be great.
a jap matt underneath the bio-rings will aid settling the dirt.

how big is your pond?
goldrush
Interesting setup

but would prefer to divide each compartment into their specific role.The first compartment as the name suggest sedimentation chamber should allow incoming water with heavy debris and sediments to settle. Ideally this should be free of any media to allow sedimentation to occur through gravity or centrifugal forces.
As cyberEt points out your fine wool will clogg in no time and lead to a resultant overflow.Bottom drains fed to each separate compartment will be ideal to factor future isolation for cleaning and servicing.
Your lapis sand maybe another area of concern.Initially you may achieve highly polished water in relatively short time but you may need constant servicing as fine sand are potential anaerobic havens for pathogenic organisms.
infocus
QUOTE(CyberET @ Tue, 17 Oct 2006 11:09 am) *

UV after filtration would be better.
I was thinking of having a tray type outlet instead of a pipe. That's why I put the UV at the inlet. Will consider shifting the UV to the outlet if the difference in efficiency is a lot.

your fine wool will choke very fast if feeding is heavy.
I'm aware of that. The intention is to change the wool on a weekly basis so that I can reduce other tedious maintenance on other parts of the sump.

replace bio-balls with bio-rings would increase filtration capacity.
That would be much more costly right?

bottom drain underneath the japanese matt will be great.
My sump is resting on the floor. Can I fix the bottom drain at the side of the sump near the bottom?

a jap matt underneath the bio-rings will aid settling the dirt.
Point noted.

how big is your pond?
Pond is about 9x2 to 9x3 ft. Water level about 1ft.


QUOTE(goldrush @ Tue, 17 Oct 2006 12:04 pm) *

Interesting setup

but would prefer to divide each compartment into their specific role.The first compartment as the name suggest sedimentation chamber should allow incoming water with heavy debris and sediments to settle. Ideally this should be free of any media to allow sedimentation to occur through gravity or centrifugal forces.
As cyberEt points out your fine wool will clogg in no time and lead to a resultant overflow.Bottom drains fed to each separate compartment will be ideal to factor future isolation for cleaning and servicing.
I have no experience in cleaning and servicing a big sump. Can you shed some light on how individual drains could help instead of only 1 at the sedimentation compartment?

Your lapis sand maybe another area of concern.Initially you may achieve highly polished water in relatively short time but you may need constant servicing as fine sand are potential anaerobic havens for pathogenic organisms.
That why I thought of changing the fine wool on a weekly basis to prevent constant servicing of the lapis sand compartment. Do you think that will help?

CyberET
oh, roughly 700 litres.. bioballs should be sufficient.
bottom drain at the side should still work, although not as well.

the thing is, can u sustain for long term, the frequent changing of wool? hehe
u can try out the setup first, and rearrange the media if things don't work the way you want ;)
infocus
I was thinking changing the fine wool more often is easier than changing water more often.

Did some change to the design.

Make away with the lapis sand compartment and increase the amount of bio-balls. Also added 1 sponge filter for each of my ranchu. Total 9 sponge filters in the sump. Kekeke.... smile.gif)


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The Matrix
reverse the placement of the oyster shells and last compartment fine wool.

ponder over it.
infocus
QUOTE(The Matrix @ Fri, 20 Oct 2006 10:59 pm) *

reverse the placement of the oyster shells and last compartment fine wool.

ponder over it.


Oyster shell in the 1st compartment looks fine but how to check the condition of the fine wool if it is placed in the 2nd compartment? Will there be a problem if the poo and dirt are stuck below the fine wool which is submerged in the water?

How about another layer of fine wool above the oyster shell?
CyberET
why did matrix ask you to swap.. ponder.. wink.gif
infocus
QUOTE(CyberET @ Sun, 22 Oct 2006 12:10 am) *

why did matrix ask you to swap.. ponder.. wink.gif


The oyster shell will breakdown over time. So swaping will allow the debris to be collected in the sedimentation area and also give it more time to breakdown further. But I don't quite understand the placement of fine wool as the purpose is to remove the dirt and poo before it gets in further to the filteration system so that it will not clog the bio-rings and bio-balls and in turns reducing the need to maintain the filter except changing the fine wool.

Matrix, or are you talking about putting the fine wool at the last compartment where the 9 sponge filters are? Pls enlighten me.
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