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yhk
Hi guys,
I'm planning to start an outdoor cement pond measuring 4' x 6' x 1' internal dimensions with a bottom drain.
Never done this before so need advise from the experts here...
1. How much will it roughly cost.
2. Does a cement pond require treatment before use? I heard it constantly leach chemicals..
3. Any other advise?
thanks in advance..
regards,
yhk
bekko
It is usually less expensive to find a plastic pond of the size you want and sink it into the ground. But, with concrete, you can make it any size and shape you want. Also easier to slope the bottom towards the drain when making your own out of concrete.

Concrete will leach bases which raise the pH too much. If you wash with an acid and wait several months the rate of leaching slows down but no one can wait that long to put in their fish. There are many types of concrete coatings. Some are cheap but do not last too long. Others are very expensive and last longer than the concrete itself. An acrylic water-stop paint is the least expensive and having a professional spray polyurea may be the most expensive.

Put in a side drain too, just in case.

-steve
yhk
Hi Steve,
thanks for your reply...
I do have an fibre glass pond but the bottom drain was done properly.
I was not able to drain the water completely making water changes and maintenance difficult; the "dirtiest" part gets stuck and had to be removed manually.

If I do frequent water changes for the first few months will the PH be an issue? Not sure if I can get the coating properly done in Singapore...

How much would it take to contruct such a a pond the US?

regards,
yhk
bekko
Personally, I do not like a goldfish pond to be too clean and almost never drain them completely. I like for there to be some stuff growing on the sides and aerobic crud on the bottom. This crud is largely indigestible (they have already eaten it several times over), but the fish keep eating it anyway. It gives them something to do and keeps their digestive system healthy.

If you are talking about being able to completely drain the pond then all you need is a flush drain port at the lowest point. If you are recirculating the water through a filter and want the crud to be automatically removed - then that is a little harder. It is difficult to make shallow ponds self-cleaning. When the width is about the same as the depth, an air dome placed over the drain port will pull all the crud to the drain where it can be entrained and removed. In shallow ponds, the air dome cannot generate enough lift to pull the crud to the drain.

I do not know what a mason would charge to build it here - perhaps $1200 US. I could do it myself for about $300 in materials. I purchased some 4' x 8' x 1' pre-formed black polyethylene ponds for $500. They are really thick plastic (about three-eighths inch) but still overpriced. A 5-foot diameter plastic kids wading pool only costs $10.

-steve
yhk
the problem with pre-fab fibre glass pond (non cutom made) is that the bottom is flat and if the drain is about 1 cm higher, the worst get trapped. I use a pure green water set-up with no filtration or pump for water circulation, just airation. Through trial and error, I've learnt the best for my set-up was to drain completely and introduce some "clean" green water back else the water turns foul pretty quickly... blood streaks on fins and tail. I've tried the air dome method before but like what you said, it's not effective. The best frequency for water change for my set-up is about once in 5 days but I only manage once a week.

To save me the labourous work every week I thought fabricating a cement pond would be the best but was concerned with the PH swing...

regards,
yhk
bekko
Understand. I have the same problem with some fry tanks. Ever use a wet/dry vacuum to remove what will not go out the drain? http://www.shopvac.com/

-steve
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