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RafflesGold Forums > Discussion Area > Green Water, Filtration and Tank Setup
I know everyone in here is a fan of the green water ( which I like the idea if I was showing ) but I would like a tank setup more for viewing the fish.

So with that said what do you think abou these two ideas for a filter set up.

First off do you see any issues in using a Hamburg Mattenfilter with goldfish?
(here is a post about it )

I am posting two images of some ideas of a modded Hamburg Mattenfilter in an external set up .

the first one is a Hamburg Mattenfilter set up so instead of pumping back into the tank the powerheads are pumping into two DYI canister filters that are BIO only and then are garvity feed back into the tank.
(blue line is water flow )

Now this image ...... is a power head with a prefilter in the tank that is pumping into a Hamburg Mattenfilter type DYI canister that feeds into a BIO filter and finaly into another filter that is bio with air circulation ( koi ponds do this kind of set up but its called a Nexus ) .Then that wil be gravity feed back into the tank.

So the DYI canister filters are taller than the tank so that Gravity will feed them back to the tank ( if that makes sense ).

(red line is water flow )

I forgot to mention the tank is 90 gallons

Thanks for the help and input ,
PS. I am also tossing aorund the idea of a Matten with a Aquaclear 500 instead of a powerhead ( then the Aquaclear would be bio only ).

I forgot to mention I am a newbie to ranchus and they will be the only fish in this tank. I am thinking about 5 total.
Thanks again,
my only concern is that.. as goldfish generates alot of waste, will the Hamburg Mattenfilter get choked very fast?
The system is not much different from using external cannister, sure it is workable but like what ET mentioned the filter medias should not be too dense to prevent chokage.

Actually, it may be even cheaper to DIY with say an old tank with compartments and it will still serves its function.

Nevertheless, an impressive setup to impress guests. biggrin.gif
Ideally, a filter will do three things:
- trap particulate waste and provide some practical means of easily removing it from the system,
- remove nitrogenous waste by providing ample surface area for nitrifying bacteria, and
- provide gas exchange (CO2 out, O2 in, etc.) through aeration and mixing.

Trappig particulate matter is easy. Getting it out of the system without making a mess and devoting an unrealistic amount to time to the task is the hard part.

The surface area used by nitrifying bacteria cannot be the same surface which is trapping particulate waste. Otherwise, the bacteria are smothered in gunk and cannot function.

You cannot have too much gas exchange. Even though you cannot volatilize nitrate, systems with a lot of gas exchange (like in a trickle tower) generally have lower nitrate levels at a given feed rate and water exchange rate.

The best filters have separate compartments for the three functions. The first compartment removes the particulate matter, the second compartment removes ammonia/nitrite, the third compartment takes care of gas exchange.

Kaldness media is very versatile stuff. Static Kaldness media traps particulates but can be easily flushed after stirring or heavy aeration, aerated moving bed Kaldness is great for nitrification, and Kaldness can be used a trickle tower for gas exchange.

thats is kind of what I was thinking with # 2 ... #1 diy is foam , #2 Bio for ammonia, #3
gas exchange with an air stone stirring the media . Doing these out of Black 4" pvc should be cheap and provided way more Bio than a standard canister / power filter set up. ... don't you think?

CP .. where you thinking a sump set up like

Thanks again everyone,
QUOTE(johnism @ Sat, 08 Dec 2007 11:31 pm) *

CP .. where you thinking a sump set up like

Here's my DIY,posted some 3 years ago biggrin.gif
I like it ... now with that filter you still have to do a weekly water change of 80%?
Does it sound like it is raining all the time?
Thanks again,
Yes John, I still do 80% change weekly, to rid the nitrates. It doesn't sound like raining because the outlet pipe is extended below the water surface.

Only difference is that I now clean the filters twice a year instead of once a year.I do it June and December, and unlike previously where I cleaned all compartments one shot, I now clean one compartment a week.Because the BBs are destroyed during cleaning, by cleaning only one compartment each week will ensure that by the time I cleaned the last compartment, the BBs would have established in the 1st compartment.

please do not take offense to this questions....
But if you are having to do an 80% water change a week.
Then is the filter doing its job?
No, no offence at all.

At the time of the filter design,and myself very much new in this hobby, I was under the impression that by having gigantic filters helps minimises water change.That is not the case.The frequency of water change depends on bioload; or rather the rate of nitrates accumulation.

The filter is doing its most important job - conversion of ammonia to nitrates.By having it big, I can lessen the frequency of the filter maintenance, less tendency for chokage,and to house my oyster shells (for buffering of water).

Massive water changes are to help rid the nitrates; and growth inhibitors.Some info on growth inhibitor here:
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