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RafflesGold Forums > Discussion Area > Green Water, Filtration and Tank Setup
junkeatng
Hello All,

I have been keeping my goldfish in an outdoor pond (4' x 3' x 3') for the last year or so. All this while the pond has been leaking at a rate of 20% every day. Last week I drained out the pond and transferred the fish into a couple of drums while the contractor 'waterproofed' the wall of the pond. Yesterday the work was completed and I put the fish back in. Unfortunately the leak persists. Therefore, I can safely conclude that the leak is in the piping system.

Has anybody experienced a similar problem? BTW the pipes are PVC and embedded within the walls and floor of the pond. So to fix the problem, I have to excavate the entire thing. I am looking at a simpler (and cheaper) solution if possible. Has anybody come across a product that can be added to the water and can seal leaks in the piping system, but at the same time is not harmful to the fish?

I would appreciate any comments that you have.

On a separate note, I lost 2 goldfish (a pearlscale and pom pom) during the repair work. These 2 individuals originate from China. The symptoms were ulceration and fin rot. I believe they succumbed to the recent Virus that swept the China Goldfish stock in early spring. Incidentally the water temp dropped from a regular 30 degrees to 27 degrees when kept in the drums. I believe the drop triggered the virus. Just for your info.
CP
Do you have a pic of your pond; and sketch on the piping systems. 20% daily loss is no small matter.

There are no products that can be added to water to seal seal the leaks.
bekko
For a Spring Viremia of Carp outbreak, the temperature has to drop below 20C.

Try plugging the pipes where they penetrate the pond wall to make sure it is the piping that leaks. By removing the pump and plugging inlet and putlet pipes you should also be able to determine whether it is the outlet or inlet piping which is broken. If it is inlet piping that leaks you could just retrofit and run the return line from the pump over the side of the pond. If it is the outlet plumbing which leaks and you have a bottom drain, then you may have to excavate to repair the old line or install a new line. The usual cause of a plumbing leak are tree roots pushing on the pipe and pulling the pipe out of a glue joint. If the broken fitting is any except the one on the bottom drain then it may not be buried too deeply. It's hard to say more without knowing how the system is plumbed.

-steve
junkeatng
Hi Guys. Tks for your comments. Attched is a drawing of my pond. The green line represents the outflow from the filter. The pink line is the inflow into the filter. All plumbing is embedded. The bypass to drain and Flow control consist of controllable knobs that set the flow rate/cutoff. Hope the drawing makes sense. I'm looking at the least painful way to solve the proble and would welcome any suggestions.

DSC00593.JPG
CP
Looks like your pond has been leaking over the past year:
http://www.rafflesgold.com/forums/index.ph...ic=5446&hl=

At a rate of 120 litres per day, you are losing 3600 litres per month; in Singapore will be about S$8 per month or $96 per year. Cost of anti-chlorine will set you back even more.

If pond is well waterproofed, it may be leaking from the filter compartment or the piping system.

Perhaps you should just abandon the current piping system altogether and run new ones (ie exposed and no longer concealed). You only need one green pipe to pump to the waterfall. The pink pipe can be abandoned; water can enter the filter by creating an opening below (at the wall separating pond and filter) or simply let the pond water overflow at the top into the filter.
junkeatng
Hi CP. Thanks for your calculation. It puts things in proper financial perspective now. I did not consider the cost of the leak thus far. Something definitely has to be done.

Strangely when I fill up the pond but do not turn on the pump, the pond does not seem to leak. It's possible that the pressure in the outlet pipe (I run 2 pumps and the pressure is quite high therefore I use a flow control knob to dial down the pressure) causes the water to seep through the faulty joint.

Tks for your suggestion of using an external pipe. I suppose at this juncture, there is no other option.
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